Best cranks currently available?

[dcochran4]

Since I am about to be rebuilding my hub, I have been contemplating larger changes in my drivetrain overall, and am considering buying new cranks as well.


I have been running a pair of 145mm St.Martin Holloflat cranks since my introduction to flatland, but have had several issues with bending sprockets and bending or shearing off sprocket bolts. I loved these cranks because of the two piece design (I had grown a hatred for 3pc spline drive cranks after riding some éclat cranks in my street days, and they would not install nor come apart for nothing, even with the proper tool.)


I have been considering the following cranks that I have seen on flatland fuel, and would like to know if there is a general consensus about either of them or perhaps a better option altogether. I am looking for simply the best cranks available:


Far East Cycles Blossom Cranks 160mm. These are a tubular design, and include a sprocket, which would require using only that sprocket. I am a little worried about what I will do if I bend this sprocket, and the "blossom drive" on the crank does not appear to accommodate any other sprocket


or


Ares Illblend Cranks 160mm. These are the same alloy style cranks as I am used to with the holloflats. They are extremely light, and include a plastic BB.


Are these good cranks? Are there better?

[DaddyCool]

Hi,

as far as I understand one could use the Far East crank with a normal spline drive sprocket as well, but I am not sure. And you do not like spline drive... So you could run into problems when the sprocket gets damaged. I am not sure if it would be easy to get a replacement.
The Ares crank also uses spline drive sprockets. It is super light but I think it is the only aluminium crank made for 48 T axles, so there is not much experience with that system and no other cranks to compare. Maybe they are super cool, but it is hard to say unless you find someone who used them.

I use Profile cranks for years. I had a lot of problems with different nano drive sprockets (22 T) because the are around the bolt in the sprocket was damaged after a while. The only sprocket which holds up great in this area which I have used is the Profile Nano Imperial which is not super light but strong. For my second bike I use a Fit DLS sprocket (22 T) with standard drive bolt position which holds up great.
I cracked a Profile Mini Magnutanium crank arm, but other riders used them for years (when you ride smooth they should be ok). The Profile Race cranks themselves are strong enough for me, I have a set for more than 15 years. For me it is the best compromise between strength and weight. I use titanium axles to keep it light.

I hope this helps.

[jsoh]

I purchased a used set of the Ares Illblend cranks about a year ago and they have been great.  Very very light; I didn't get the plastic BB but I have been using regular BB bearings no problem.  The pinch bolt design is great, no special tools necessary for these cranks.  I think they're the perfect cranks, well-designed and well-made.

[out~riding]

Here are some strong  2,5 piece cranks in 165mm:

BSD - Substance cranks

Subrosa - BITCHIN

The Set - Stealth

Ares - PHATHER

[dcochran4]

I went out on a limb and purchased the Ares Illblends and got them in the mail today. These things are seriously light. I have yet to install them and ride them, because I am in the middle of rebuilding my NYB hub. Despite being skeptical about spline-drive, I heard some really good things about the pinch bolt system, as jsoh had mentioned. Thanks for the input from everyone. I intend to post a review of these cranks after i get them installed and finish rebuilding my hub.

[sakis]

I ride the ares cranks for 8 months now with the plastic bb and they hold great,plus i think the plastic/aluminium bb and the aluminum axle take a lot of the punishment away from the landings cause of the materials..
Best cranks out in my opinion for flatland tricks on the pedals. The plastic bb is hard for pedaling but i ride the cranks chainless for 4 months so its perfect if you want to ride backward back wheel pedaling tricks with a safe free coaster and the cranks not moving.

[K.Wong]

have the ares illbendz, the "head" of button shape bolt for the pinch arm is slightly too big for the hole, was rubbing hard against one side of the bolt hole and causing the aluminum to warp a little during initial installation.
l swapped mine for size 6 hollow Allen bolts that come on stems with no issues. just had to trim about 5mm off the Allen bolts as they were too long.
i also run a hybrid bb system- the drive side is standard European sealed bb, the left side is plastic. the plastic bb absorbs the impact and helps the pedals to stay in place, the European bb prevents the binding issued that full plastic bb users have... i also have a thin aluminum shim/ washer between the plastic bb and spacer tube- it helps prevent the tube from wearing a groove into the plastic bb. prevents side-to-side play later and reduces the compression tension you have to do on the cranks to keep the setup play-free
 i ride to my spots and commute with my bike so my cranks/ bbs wears off differently from other riders who ride hard, but drive to their spots. hope that helps

[FlatSociety]

Hi all. For the past year I've been running Gusset Woodstock 853 Cranks in 165mm. They are the best weight to strength ratio cranks you can get. They use the Reynolds 853 tubing which is lighter & stronger than 4130 chromoly. These cranks weigh in at 412 grams (14.5 oz.) for the arms. I'm using an FSA Ti spindle at 4.8 oz along with hollow Ti bolts. All together everything weighs in at 19.9 oz. I weigh 200 lbs & had zero probs with this set up.

[SaschaB.]

I would recommend you set of Profile Magnutanium Cranks in 145 - 160mm and combine it with a spline drive sprocket. i've been riding this set up for lots of years ( with a 20T tree spline drive sprocket ) ( frinds of mine too ). I also doing lots of one eigthies to fakie hops and this Magnutanium crankset - tree spline drive sprocket - combo holds up fine. its superlite and great quality! i know the price is not low but its worth any dollar.
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if i would get me a cheaper crankset, i would choose the ST. MARTIN EVO Spline Drive, cause its made with short arms and with great style and strong.

Greets, Sascha

[efxman]

Profile race cranks, I have had the same pair since 1996 and they are still straight and the chrome is still great on them.  Maybe not the lightest (even though the weight is not that bad) but last pair of cranks you ever buy.

[VojTECH]

I would recommend you set of Profile Magnutanium Cranks in 145 - 160mm and combine it with a spline drive sprocket. i've been riding this set up for lots of years ( with a 20T tree spline drive sprocket ) ( frinds of mine too ). I also doing lots of one eigthies to fakie hops and this Magnutanium crankset - tree spline drive sprocket - combo holds up fine. its superlite and great quality! i know the price is not low but its worth any dollar.
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if i would get me a cheaper crankset, i would choose the ST. MARTIN EVO Spline Drive, cause its made with short arms and with great style and strong.

Greets, Sascha

I second that. I bought a used set of Profile Mini Magnutanium cranks 9 years ago and have been riding those since then with zero issues. As I switched frames, I changed BBs and, when needed, sprockets. But the cranks are still as goog as they were the day I got them.

[K.Wong]

i too have the profile magnutanium and flatland spec. cranks.
 the only draw back to the system is the high compression needed to keep the setup play-free, relative tight tolerances needed between the spindle and spindle boss. constant monitoring of arm/ spindle play especially if you keep slamming the pedals/ cranks sideways or commute with your bike constantly.
 plastic b.b don't work well with profile compression type system as there is too much give inherent in the plastic bb or cup.
a lot of heat is generated if you commute with your cranks setup tight for tricks and the wear on the plastic bb and spindle itself is really quick- grit gets embedded within the plastic when its is soft n hot, acts like a scouring pad on the titanium spindle.
but like i said previously: i commute with my bicycle and my issues may not reflect yours.