Global-flat.com Board
English => Parts & Bikes => Topic started by: Peter Hollinger on June 06, 2021, 09:32:30 PM
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Recently built up a flatland specific bike again and while my old KHE Geisha Light still works, it has seen better days.
I have been running an Odyssey Clutch V2 on my hybrid bike for two or three years now and it has been flawless. Fantastic hub but if I wouldn’t mind something a bit lighter on my flatland specific rig.
A few years ago I had an Ezra hub and didn’t get on with it at all. The clicking and popping from the pawls was unnerving.
So my question is…. what hub do you run and what do think of it?
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You'll likely receive recommendations for the Far East hub. I am currently riding it and not impressed. It's seemingly plagued with all the same clicks, pops and wobbles of the Ezra hub. Also, there's the clown-level of gap that I frankly can't understand needing for anything other than a 180 down a set of stairs or something. I may have a defective one, but still.. Can't recommend.
As far as other hubs go, that's a good question. The 'perfect' free coaster may still take a few years to come down the line. Although, there are a few intriguing ones that may actually be smooth and reliable. The newer Wethepeople hub looks like it might actually be good.
If you run a frame with 3/8 dropouts, the options are pretty slim. I'm considering replacing a perfectly good frame with 3/8 dropouts just for the better hub options.
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Thanks for your response.
My current frame has 10mm dropouts so I was considering the FEC hub. The main thing which was putting me off was the fact it s a pawl based design.
I have heard good things about the WTP Hybrid hub but again, its pawl based so I struggle to see how it won't have the same issues as the others.
I might just give my old Geisha Light hub an overhaul......
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Hello Peter, if you do not want to use a "cassette type" hub (and I would say there are good reasons for that) and you want it to be light I would say keep you KHE Geisha Light. Maybe new bearing and it should be fine again, don't you think?
The FEC is much lighter with the Ti parts, but I personally always wondered how I should trust two pawls... Almost all cassette hubs have three or more and also the other cassette freecoasters.
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I swapped all the bearings out not too long ago, i actually think the inner axle is bent. Plus the rim it’s on is starting to crack around the spoke holes.
I was going to treat myself to a whole new wheel but I don’t fancy dropping $400-500 on something I’m not stoked on.
What about the Ares RFC or the KHE Greyhound?
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Thanks for your response.
My current frame has 10mm dropouts so I was considering the FEC hub. The main thing which was putting me off was the fact it s a pawl based design.
I have heard good things about the WTP Hybrid hub but again, its pawl based so I struggle to see how it won't have the same issues as the others.
I might just give my old Geisha Light hub an overhaul......
Love my FEC. Great thing about the pawls is you always know when it's engaged due to the sound.
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i ve said it again,KHE Grayhound adjustable,very underated
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The most reliable so far for me aftet 4 years is the odyssey clutch v2 but heavier than my ti fec that i bought some months ago. The khe is classic but it wobbles after some time.The easier to ride is the fec ti though as the wheel rolls and spin easier. I had some problems with it disengaging by it self with the ti axle but i add a spacer now and it works great. If i could sold one wheel i would go for the bsd though. This is the best according to James white by the way.
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The Greyhound comes with different axles. The adjustable version has a 14 mm hollow male axle and the outside adjustable gap option. The street version has a 118 mm long 14 mm female axle that ends in the dropout (so you need 14 mm dropouts). It is lighter than the adjustable version. The flatland version has a 110 mm long 14 mm female axle made out of alumimium and so it is meant for 10 mm dropouts (but of course you can use adapter) and of course it is the lightest. According to the GF parts list the Geisha light is slightly lighter than the Greyhound Flat.
It is important to see that all Greyhound versions have classical cone nut on both sides of the hub whereas the Geisha used the "EAS-system". So the wobble that Sakis meantioned is at least a different story.
I am 95 % sure that you could use a Greyhound Flat axle and put it into your Geisha Light hub. You would need the cone nuts in this case and female bolts. The EAS system used 3/8" 26TPI as far as I know whereas the Greyhound female axles use 3/8" 24TPI bolts.
Bikers Base has a lot of spare sparts very cheap.
https://bikers-base.com/products/khe-greyhound-flat-ersatz-freecoaster-female-bmx-achse?_pos=2&_sid=a5e6d4823&_ss=r
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Hello Daddycool,
I have both versions and i have pit the newer axle into the older khe and a federal coaster that is even newer.
I just used New cone nuts and the wObble is smaller but is still there.
Maybe both of mu shells are old and they have make a little wobble over the years.
Zero problems for the clutchv 2 though.
Also i like a lot my fec ti since i sold the problems.
I ll check the spare parts. Thanks for the link.
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Thanks for all your help with this one guys.
I would agree with sakis in that the Clutch V2 is the best freecoaster I've ever used. Its 3 years old now and I've never had to take it apart, works flawlessly - rolls forever, no play, solid engagement.
I'm not overly overly concerned by weight but for my flatland specific rig I don't see the need for the additional 200g.
My Geisha has never rolled very freely but its been pretty awesome in every other way and its almost 10 years old.
So it looks like I will be choosing between the standard steel FEC or the KHE Greyhound Flat.
I like the simplicity of the FEC but prefer the feel of a traditional clutch system. I'm sure I would get used to the pawls but couldn't put up with clicking and popping.
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While we're on the topic, I'm curious to know if anyone else has had issues with the FEC hub skipping, popping and wobbling. Mine has been this way straight from the box. Beyond the gap, which I've more or less adapted to, the dramatic skipping when pedaling out of tricks has been my main gripe. Is this something anyone else has dealt with? If so, is there a remedy to tighten things up and make it work correctly?
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Not having used an FEC coaster myself, I would guess it’s just the nature of them.
I’m my opinion it’s inevitable that when the pawls are reengaging sometimes they will land right on the edge of one tooth and slip to the next one.
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That does make sense. It's just tough to believe that if this were a normal function as opposed to a defect, that people wouldn't speak about it every time the hub is mentioned. I know there are a lot of people who are finicky about their bikes and this, I imagine, would make the hub an automatic pass for many. It's a much clearer sign of lack of refinement than the KHE's less than smooth rolling, which has been brought up by nearly everyone over the years.
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Chemoflope which version do you ride?
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The standard 3/8" version
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Freenight/BSD Revolution looks best for me after all khe-like freecoasters.
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People with Odyssey Clutch v2 freecoasters:
Are you able to dial enough slack out? I had the screw all the way in, and it was still about 1/4 turn slack. I even tried making spacers for the screw to give it a couple mm more length, but it's still too much.
Has anyone tried to shim these manually, then use the screw adjuster for fine tuning?
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I think you have to back the screw out to remove slack
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The 2pc spacer grows wider when you screw it in. It's like adding shims.The 'max slack' spacer Odyssey sells is thinner than the 2-pc adjuster fully collapsed.
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I just heard from Odyssey. They really couldn't tell me to modify it, because they were the manufacturer. I get it.He did suggest that some people use 2 of the 'max slack' spacers together, and that's my next try. I have laser cutters, so I can cut a spacer for testing as well.
He also suggested that I just swap out my (assumed) 25T for something larger. I responded that I have a 20T, so I suppose that's amplifying the issue.
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I ended up going for the FEC hub. So many people seem to use it that I want to give it a go for myself.
I'm going in with my eyes open to the popping and clicking, so I hope it lives up to expectations in every other way.
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NYB Japan K is super, I think I have it for 6-7 years, ultra light with a Ti Axle swapped in, cog machined down to fit slim KHE Tanga chains, close to the FEC Ti. Bearings could be more modern though.
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I used the max slack spacer and some of the spacers from the shadow freecoaster to get rid of the adjustable unbrake .Its still not perfect but its better than the Madera gulfcoaster I bought recently .