Global-flat.com Board
English => How-To => Topic started by: Levi on May 31, 2008, 10:31:37 AM
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(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/ievelhost/DSC01042.jpg)
1. If you’re installing a used brake, make sure to clean your brakes and mounts before putting it on. Dirt = big no no.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/ievelhost/DSC01039.jpg)
2. Sand down your pads a little to make them grip better and get the dirt off. (This should be done every once in a while if you want them to keep functioning well) Put the pads on the arms but just hand tightend so they don’t fall off but you can still move them if needed.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/ievelhost/DSC01040.jpg)
3. Put some grease on the mounts and on the inside of the brake where the mounts go in. Don’t put too much because most will be pushed out again. Put the brakes over the mounts starting with right arm. Then put the springs on. Be very careful when putting them on because there are 2 different ones. If you put them on the wrong side you will mess up the springs.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/ievelhost/DSC01050.jpg)This one goes on the left.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/ievelhost/DSC01051.jpg)
4. Start screwing in the bolt and spring adjusters. Don’t screw them in hard. You should still be able to move the adjusters.
5. Now it’s time to take the cable out of the housing and put it somewhere aside. Somewhere clean.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/ievelhost/DSC01055.jpg)
6. Put the cable housing on the lever and put it through your steerer tube. Make it so you don’t have too much cable out. You will only get caught in it. Some people like to use a flexie here. This enables you to have the cable closer to your bars and less likely to get caught on. The flexie just replaces a part of the housing.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/ievelhost/DSC01059.jpg)
7. The housing now comes out of the steerer tube. Most forks have a special slot for better cable routing. If your forks don’t… bad luck sucka. Don’t put it too tight because it will create friction but also not too loose as this will just increase the chances of getting caught on it. Now mark it where you want to cut. Again some people like to use a flexie here. Very handy to make a tight bend.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/ievelhost/DSC01062.jpg)
8. Take the housing out again and cut it on the mark. Remember that cutting a piece off is simple but putting a piece back on is impossible. So don’t cut too short. You can go back to the previous step and check if the length is ok or if you want to cut more.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/ievelhost/DSC01064.jpg)
9. When the housing is cut to the required length it’s time to put the cable back in. First I push it through so it opens the inside of the housing. Then I take the cable out again and stick in the smallest allen key I have to make sure the cable will go through well.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/ievelhost/DSC01063.jpg)
10. Add the little metal piece that comes with the cable. This prevents the housing from getting crushed. Now grease up the inner cable and slide it in the housing. Don’t use wd-40 type stuff. That is only good for cleaning and getting parts off.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/ievelhost/DSC01069.jpg)
11. Slide the brake bullet over the cable and tighten it slightly. Just so it stays in place.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/ievelhost/DSC01073.jpg)
12. What I do now is put my allen key ready in the brake bullet and grip the wire. I pull it to the max and tighten it some more but still not fully. The brakepads are now touching the rim. Then softly squeeze the brake so the cable slides back through the bullet a little (can’t ride with the pads against your rims). Now pull the brake arms equally away from the rim and check if there is space between the rim and pads. Just a little is fine, but there has to be space for the wheel to spin without touching the pads. If you think it’s ok, tighten the bullet completely.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/ievelhost/DSC01074.jpg)
13. Here comes the delicate part. Now you want to move your wrench up so there is tension on the springs and the pad goes away from rim and tighten it with the allen key. Be very carefull to not overtighten the springs (with your wrench). Just a little bit of tension is more than enough. Do this on both sides equally so the pads have the same distance between them and the rim. Pull the brake lever between every adjustment. If you have to put a lot of tension on the springs, you are doing something wrong. Go back if needed.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/ievelhost/DSC01076.jpg)
14. If the springtension is ok and everything is tight, it’s time to set the pads. I just pull the lever, set the pads so they are in the middle of the rim and flat against your rim and tighten again. Some brakes will squeak like hell if the pads hit the rims flat on. What you need to do than is toe-in the pads. Set them so the front part of the pad hits the rim first. Guess you could use a credit card or a piece of paper to do this.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/ievelhost/DSC01081.jpg)
15. Your brakes should be pretty good by now. If needed you could still use the barrel adjusters to add some more tension on the cable. This makes your cable housing a bit longer, making the cable feel shorter. If you have to use the barrel adjusters to much, go back to 12.
2 examples of flexie use. 1 at the fork and 1 at the bars.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/ievelhost/flexiedown.jpg)(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/ievelhost/flexieup.jpg)
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hope it's a bit correct. if anybody has some things that need to be added, should be explained better or finds this just wrong, let me know; extra tips and tricks are welcome.
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nice job man, can i add, i find when i sand it its worth doing it side to side so the ur going against the grain on the pad (if u get me) then its more lickly to add some crip, also sometimes its worth oiling the cable if ur simply re instaling ur old one
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Great job Levi! :beer:
We can now send the "How do I set up breaks"? newbies to this thread.
They can learn to not only set up brakes, but how to spell them also.
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Definitely nice job.
No matter what, i always had problems with my brakes. (there was always somthing) :huh:
And i must say if i read this how-to ... i see it in front of me, so personaly, well done man. :beer:
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The following was posted on Pedal BMX by pwh4130 a long time ago.
No matter if you have a 990, Hombre or Evolver, if you follow these instructions, you will get your brakes to work better than ever.
Start off by making sure the brake arms fit on the posts. Sometimes the arms are too snug. If that is the case, you need to sand or dremel the posts a hair at a time. The posts should be greased lightly before the brake arms are put into place.
Next you will install the springs which should also have a dab of grease on them. Put the lock nut on and then lightly grease the bolt and install it into the post until it just gets snug and then back it off a hair untill later. If you have a 990, throw away the plastic dust caps. They just cause friction and don't really do anything.
The next thing is to adjust the brake pads to where you want them by pushing the arm in until the shoe hits the rim. Make sure the whole pad touches the rim. If you want your brakes to feather better, toe them in so that only about 50% of the shoe hits the rim. You know you should sand the new brake shoe first, right? At least scuff it on the ground once or twice and then wipe off the dust.
I'm not going to get into all the variations of cable routing but I will say that the shorter the cable-the less friction-the less lost energy. Keep the cables short but make sure they aren't kinked. Get a bottle of Tri-flow or Slik 50 One Lube and put the little straw into the cable housing and drip enough into the housing that it comes out the other end. Make sure you grease the barrel of the cable where it goes into the lever. While you're at it, lightly grease the pivot of the lever.
I have also noticed that a lot of frames are set up so the barrel adjusters aren't in line with the brake mounts so the cable rubs against the adjuster when it's pulled. You can cut an old cable and get the teflon liner out or go to a bike shop and get a small piece to slide onto the cable and into the adjuster so it glides rather than grinds. You might also want to do this on a front brake where the cable gaes between the arms but not too long or it will jam up and decrease the effectiveness of you brake.
Now that you have the cables routed to the brake, it's time to tighten them into position. With NO tension on the springs, position the shoes against the rim and then gently pull the cable snug and tighten the pinch bolt/knarp/clamp thing. If you are using a gyro, do the bottom cable first and then the upper cable. Make sure the lower cables are screwed all the way out of the gyro tabs and the uppers are all the way into the gyro tabs.
All right, it's finally spring time! The mistake people often make is that they put too much tension on their springs thinking that it will make their brakes better. It just makes them harder to pull. All the springs do is pull the shoes off the rim when the lever is released. Put the correct allen wrench into the bolt and gently twist the tensioning bolt just enough so that the shoe comes off the rim. Lock it into place with the allen key and do to same on the other side. Since you didn't pull the cable super tight before clamping it, the springs will pull the shoes away from the rim a little bit.
Make sure both shoes contact the rims at the same time. To keep them even you just need to put a little more tension on whichever side hits first.
To get the feel you want, you might need to adjust the pinch bolt on the cable. If you need to do this you must first release the spring tension so you aren't fighting the springs. This will also give you a reference point for where you want to move the cabel to get the desired effect. As far as the pull, you can increase the spring tension to where you like it but you should remember to keep it to a minimum. Spin the barrel adjusters to fine tune and remove any slop.
Clean your rims with water or if they are really dirty use fantastic, windex or the fluid from you car's windshield wipers if you're in a pinch. After the first cleaning all you should need is to wipe them down with a wet rag or a spit covered finger. Just keep the dust off. If you rely on Simple Green or some other product, you aren't doing your brakes right and they will just get gunked up again.
Rules of thumb are:
Lube every place two things move against each other
Don't make your cables too long
Minimal spring tension makes for better brakes.
Sorry to write a novel here but hopefully this will help all the riders out there who still use brakes.
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Nicely done man. I like how you put everything together clean and simple for any beginners looking to get some new brakes.
Trust me, odds are your local bike shop doesn't know sh*t about dialing brakes.
I work in a bike shop with plenty of guys that are experts on everything about bikes. Maybe you should think about what you're saying so beginners don't stay away from professional bike shops.
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Choice how to, very well explained, great pics!
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this is an incredibly helpful thread, thanks. -_-
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I've done this a million times and I still enjoyed reading through it. (And learned some new tips) You should definitely add a detailed gyro version - I run one so maybe I could give you the pics or do it someday.
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I've done this a million times and I still enjoyed reading through it. (And learned some new tips) You should definitely add a detailed gyro version - I run one so maybe I could give you the pics or do it someday.
all how-to's are welcome.
I don't run back brakes so it's a bit hard for me to make ;D
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I got an F-Set bike and a Gyro bike and feel like I got both of them to work well. I'll try to step-by-step it with photos and start a new thread for back brakes. When I do, I'll come add the link here as well.
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Levi,
Anybody got pics on how they set up like Evo 2's (on front) that don't have the barrel adjusters connected on the front brake mount. I can rig something with what I have, but it just doesn't seem to make as much sense to run it straight onto the arm.
I actually have the St. Martins but basically same design; both arms are open hooved design.
Thoughts? Pics even better?
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Levi,
Anybody got pics on how they set up like Evo 2's (on front) that don't have the barrel adjusters connected on the front brake mount. I can rig something with what I have, but it just doesn't seem to make as much sense to run it straight onto the arm.
I actually have the St. Martins but basically same design; both arms are open hooved design.
Thoughts? Pics even better?
If im not mistaken...
http://www.flatlandfuel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=869 (http://www.flatlandfuel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=869)
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If im not mistaken...
[url]http://www.flatlandfuel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=869[/url] ([url]http://www.flatlandfuel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=869[/url])
Thanks for the reply, but yeah I have the knarps and stuff, I just mean the entry side where older 990's have the barrel adjuster already built on, these newer brakes have the open end on both side. Probably for running dual brakes, etc.
But what do you guys run on the cable side or do you just let the cable run right up to the brake arm end. ?? Make sense.
(http://www.flatlandfuel.com/ProductImages/OdysseyEvo2.jpg)
Actually looks like the Evo has the piece for that now that I look but the St. Martin didn't.
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no extra pieces
end of cable on one side and a knarp on the other.
my suelo's are like that also.
will get a pic.
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is it this?
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/ievelhost/DSC05415.jpg)
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Yeah, thank for the pic. I guess you just adjust it at the top barrel only or use a flexie at the bottom. Seems a little crude but if it works for you guys I'm down for trying it, just wanted to check that out.
Thanks again.
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Yeah, thank for the pic. I guess you just adjust it at the top barrel only or use a flexie at the bottom. Seems a little crude but if it works for you guys I'm down for trying it, just wanted to check that out.
Thanks again.
no problem.
I had my thoughts at first. but with a bit of tunning they ended up working just fine. I use the barrel adjuster at the lever for some added tension. but only after the cable stretches a bit.
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Alright guys I'm a bit lost. I'm running Revenge brakes. I got the housing cut, and the cable lubed going through the first post and the 2nd post. However when I try to add tension, AND hold the wire, no matter how loose the wire is it just goes right against the rim. There is no tension on the springs and these brakes work fine. The spring part seems easy. However just setting up the tension doesn't seem to be working. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? My brakes don't have a bullet, rather 2 posts that are fixed. No allen bolt, just 10mm bolt. Thx! Hope anyone even looks at this...
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Alright guys I'm a bit lost. I'm running Revenge brakes. I got the housing cut, and the cable lubed going through the first post and the 2nd post. However when I try to add tension, AND hold the wire, no matter how loose the wire is it just goes right against the rim. There is no tension on the springs and these brakes work fine. The spring part seems easy. However just setting up the tension doesn't seem to be working. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? My brakes don't have a bullet, rather 2 posts that are fixed. No allen bolt, just 10mm bolt. Thx! Hope anyone even looks at this...
check the other thread where you asked...
gave you an answer.
Note to all in tri state area- I will set up your brakes and teach you how to do it right at a session...
Free of charge...
Allthough i do like pizza :wub: :wub:
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question does the silver spring go on the right and the gold one on the left(st.Mrtin brake)
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question does the silver spring go on the right and the gold one on the left(st.Mrtin brake)
don't know about the colors.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/ievelhost/DSC01050.jpg)
this one goes left.
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Ok an update and a couple of questions -
I've got the cable installed and all that. It seems my housing is just a little bit too long. I've got it so I don't need a zip tie (bad bad bad I've been told) however there is a lil slack at the top of the bars. It loops a lil instead of being right up against the bar. That said, when I use my brake or do some sort of riding the slack ends up going down to the bottom, thus rubbing the tire. Other than that works great. So I'm guessing I should retrim the housing length again, but I'm worried if I'll be able to reuse the cable again. Hopefully.
The other question in regards to taking out the cable again and all that is, do I have to release tension on the springs to do this? and then reset the spring tension? This How-to and Matt W. video give the lesson from the POV of installing a cable, not reinstalling say for a snapped cable or something. The answer is prob pretty common sense (i.e. no resetting tension) but I just want to make sure.
And finally in regards to how tight to pull the cable - to get the brake arms close to the rim - I did set the cable tension initially, However one side was closer than the other (due to spring tension I'm sure) I simply increased the spring tension on the arm that was further away and brought it closer to the rim. Does this sound ok?
And to KatoBmx, I believe if you drop the spring in your hand, and simulate the brake arms motion, you'll see the correct spring compress down when doing the arms motion the correct way. That should tell you the correct spring as the other one will open up. Hope that helps. I asked the same question before. gl
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for brown in brown
Ok an update and a couple of questions -
I've got the cable installed and all that. It seems my housing is just a little bit too long. I've got it so I don't need a zip tie (bad bad bad I've been told) however there is a lil slack at the top of the bars. It loops a lil instead of being right up against the bar. That said, when I use my brake or do some sort of riding the slack ends up going down to the bottom, thus rubbing the tire. Other than that works great. So I'm guessing I should retrim the housing length again, but I'm worried if I'll be able to reuse the cable again. Hopefully.
trim the housing. using the same cable might be tricky.
The other question in regards to taking out the cable again and all that is, do I have to release tension on the springs to do this? and then reset the spring tension? This How-to and Matt W. video give the lesson from the POV of installing a cable, not reinstalling say for a snapped cable or something. The answer is prob pretty common sense (i.e. no resetting tension) but I just want to make sure.
no need to re-adjust. just check at the end and add/release if needed
And finally in regards to how tight to pull the cable - to get the brake arms close to the rim - I did set the cable tension initially, However one side was closer than the other (due to spring tension I'm sure) I simply increased the spring tension on the arm that was further away and brought it closer to the rim. Does this sound ok?
yes, adding a bit sounds ok. but don't just keep adding tension. to much tension =broken springs
And to KatoBmx, I believe if you drop the spring in your hand, and simulate the brake arms motion, you'll see the correct spring compress down when doing the arms motion the correct way. That should tell you the correct spring as the other one will open up. Hope that helps. I asked the same question before. gl
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run the cable over the bars to keep it from going down.
Truth is, sometimes you have no choice but to use a zip tie (or cable strap).
I use one on my fork where it comes out of the steerer tube just because the clearence is so damn close and running the cable behind the swiss miss not being held up just leaves it to rub.
Hell- id rather have a zip tie and have dialed brakes then have a cable that rubs.
Also my cable housing is already rubbed all the way though from the times when my zip ties snap...
this is why i love my velcro cable straps =D
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Thx Dave aka Toucan (lol) Not sure if you use this kind but it's a godsend. They have this velcro that has a slot in it, and you basically run the velcro through the slot, then wrap it around your cable. It basically lets you control how loose or tight it is better than a single velcro strap. I can float you some if need be. We used it all the time in telecommunications/wiring up rack systems so the wires had some flex in tight spots.
run the cable over the bars to keep it from going down.
Truth is, sometimes you have no choice but to use a zip tie (or cable strap).
I use one on my fork where it comes out of the steerer tube just because the clearence is so damn close and running the cable behind the swiss miss not being held up just leaves it to rub.
Hell- id rather have a zip tie and have dialed brakes then have a cable that rubs.
Also my cable housing is already rubbed all the way though from the times when my zip ties snap...
this is why i love my velcro cable straps =D
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Yo I just wanted to say thanks for writing this how-to! I've just put together my first flatland bike this afternoon and had no idea how to set the spring tension so this thread helped a lot.
Moose.
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This isnt quite the same question, as I honestly have my brakes dialed in perfectly. Actually too perfectly. For the first time ever, Im running black rims instead of chrome. The orange pads that came on my Militant LT when I first bought it were crap on the black rims, so I bought a set of clear ones. The action is beautiful and I actually dont have a problem feathering them, but they squeal like a stuck pig ANY time I use them. I pull them to slow down or to feather a trick, this happens. Ive tried toeing the inward slightly, still to no avail. Im guessing that a different set of pads would be the answer. I DONT need them to grab as well as they do, but I do want them to grab when I need them to Im afraid that if I toe them in anymore, the brakes will feel way to spongey.
Like I said, Im not new to working on brakes, and the action is perfect. The only thing I can chalk it up to is possibly the black rims. I will be switching back to chrome soon, but its not a priority as my bike is pretty dialed except for the squealing. Any suggestions on maybe a good pad that will still grab, but not squeal, or am I just gonna be dealing with this till I go back to chrome rims?
Thanks for any answers,
-MIKE
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This isnt quite the same question, as I honestly have my brakes dialed in perfectly. Actually too perfectly. For the first time ever, Im running black rims instead of chrome. The orange pads that came on my Militant LT when I first bought it were crap on the black rims, so I bought a set of clear ones. The action is beautiful and I actually dont have a problem feathering them, but they squeal like a stuck pig ANY time I use them. I pull them to slow down or to feather a trick, this happens. Ive tried toeing the inward slightly, still to no avail. Im guessing that a different set of pads would be the answer. I DONT need them to grab as well as they do, but I do want them to grab when I need them to Im afraid that if I toe them in anymore, the brakes will feel way to spongey.
Like I said, Im not new to working on brakes, and the action is perfect. The only thing I can chalk it up to is possibly the black rims. I will be switching back to chrome soon, but its not a priority as my bike is pretty dialed except for the squealing. Any suggestions on maybe a good pad that will still grab, but not squeal, or am I just gonna be dealing with this till I go back to chrome rims?
Thanks for any answers,
-MIKE
a friend of mine has clear pads and they allways made a lot of noise. I would play with them and it would stop for 30 min before coming back. htey are the best for black rims imo.
the same pads on chrome rims will not change it.
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I think I just need to keep rubbing dirt on them. LOL No seriously, we were riding a school lot yesterday, and there was some sand in a couple spots, and I think that combined with the sweat from my hands when grabbing the wheels made them work perfect. The noise went away, they didnt lock up at all when feathering, I had to pull them hard to get them to lock up, but they would stop when needed. Then the lights went out and we went to a different spot. Within an hour they were squealing and locking up again.......Now if I can just find away to make them work like they did when I got dirt on them, Ill be set!!!!!LOL I think Im just gonna try different pads. I dont need them t lock up like they do @all. The old pads just didnt work at all. I just think I need to find something in the middle of crappy pads, and the clear ones and I should be set.
Thanks for the reply though, :beer: ;D
-MIKE
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This isnt quite the same question, as I honestly have my brakes dialed in perfectly. Actually too perfectly. For the first time ever, Im running black rims instead of chrome. The orange pads that came on my Militant LT when I first bought it were crap on the black rims, so I bought a set of clear ones. The action is beautiful and I actually dont have a problem feathering them, but they squeal like a stuck pig ANY time I use them. I pull them to slow down or to feather a trick, this happens. Ive tried toeing the inward slightly, still to no avail. Im guessing that a different set of pads would be the answer. I DONT need them to grab as well as they do, but I do want them to grab when I need them to Im afraid that if I toe them in anymore, the brakes will feel way to spongey.
Like I said, Im not new to working on brakes, and the action is perfect. The only thing I can chalk it up to is possibly the black rims. I will be switching back to chrome soon, but its not a priority as my bike is pretty dialed except for the squealing. Any suggestions on maybe a good pad that will still grab, but not squeal, or am I just gonna be dealing with this till I go back to chrome rims?
Thanks for any answers,
-MIKE
Mike, I run black rims and I don't get any squealing with the black brake pads that came with the Tektro brakes that came on my Opsis. I'm like you, I still like to be able to feather my brakes without them completely grabbing the rim...but good enough to still do tricks the require good stopping power. I actually would put dust on my rims sometimes when the brakes lock up to well, so that I can feather them better.
So, I would assume it's your clear pads. I think they a bit more "rubbery"(for lack of better term) than colored or black pads.
Good to see your shoulder healing up well enough to do some riding. Can't wait to meet you in person and get some riding done.
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Thanks Tod. Yeah the shoulder is healing and Florida is really starting to hold its own. We had ten riders the other day, including Kip Williamson and others, and we are supposed to have more tomorrow, including Marcos de Jesus. So needless to say, Ive got some pretty heavy motivation. LOL The time off definately helped though. Ive actually gotten creative again instead of just, "Im gonna learn this or that trick today." Plus Its getting back to where I can think something up and actually make it happen so Im more psyched than ever. Plus Ive gotten a few new parts for my bike that have it totally dialed. At least until today when I broke my back axle. LOL
I hoping with everything I have that Im gonna make it to the round up and look forward to riding with you as well.
-MIKE
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i've had my brakes dialed for over a year.
now for some reason, i'm embarassed to say,
my pads don't come off the rim after stopping.
if i give the pads a little nudge they open fine.
after stopping my lever is loose with the extra
cable. i've redone the spring tensioners several times.
each time i added a little more tension to the springs
to no avail.
WTF?
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i've had my brakes dialed for over a year.
now for some reason, i'm embarassed to say,
my pads don't come off the rim after stopping.
if i give the pads a little nudge they open fine.
after stopping my lever is loose with the extra
cable. i've redone the spring tensioners several times.
each time i added a little more tension to the springs
to no avail.
WTF?
check your springs and install a new cable
:beer:
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Frayed cable inside the housing.
works great now. thanks for the timely help.
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2 things
whats a brake bullet, and do i need it?
and do i need to cut the metal part of the cable
i got lost in there wouldnt it be too long?
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2 things
whats a brake bullet, and do i need it?
and do i need to cut the metal part of the cable
i got lost in there wouldnt it be too long?
brake bullet
(http://www.flatlandfuel.com/ProductImages/brake_bullet.jpg)
or you could use a lucky bolt
lucky bolt
(http://www.flatlandfuel.com/productimages/luckybolt_new.jpg)
yes, you need it.
yes, cables and housing need to be trimmed.
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k thanks for the clerification :ph34r:
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Here's a tip, if you want to keep your cables from fraying, get some of this.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f210/Stubbleduck43/S5001833.jpg)
It will also help from getting stabbed and scratching your frame or forks. You can get it for cheap at an electronics store. It comes in many colors as well. Just cut as much you need and shrink it with a lighter.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f210/Stubbleduck43/S5001836.jpg)
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Right now I'm running Tektro brakes front and rear. Got them both super dialed and anytime someone rides my bike they comment on how well the front works. But for the sake of saving a little weight and a lower stack height, I just bought a Diatech Box from Pat for the front. The Tektro is like the Hombre in that it has the barrell adjuster built into the brake arm so you have to run the cable out of the fork to the non-drive side of the bike.
As was already mentioned in this thread, the Box, Evo II, St. Martin and Fly brakes do not have the barrell adjuster built in to the arm. I saw that most of you guys run the cable straight into the arm with no problems. I have the cable end that Odyssey provides with the Evo II's so I'm gonna give that a try and see if it fits. But my question is this...with this brake design (no barrel adjuster built in) does it matter which side of the bike you run the front cable out of? I would think not. Plus, I can run it out the drive side of the bike, keeping it out of the way of fork glides and such (I run front cables as short as possible so it's not really a problem but, you know). Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated. Thanks!
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^^ will work just fine
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2 things
whats a brake bullet, and do i need it?
and do i need to cut the metal part of the cable
i got lost in there wouldnt it be too long?
brake bullet
([url]http://www.flatlandfuel.com/ProductImages/brake_bullet.jpg[/url])
or you could use a lucky bolt
lucky bolt
([url]http://www.flatlandfuel.com/productimages/luckybolt_new.jpg[/url])
yes, you need it.
yes, cables and housing need to be trimmed.
I don't like lucky bolts at all. They tend to warp the cable weird in the hanger and I don't think they pull as smooth. They're also more difficult to get the cable where you want where as with the bullet it's pretty easy.
To each their own though.
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Do I need a Linear or a Slick cable? Which one works best?
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slic
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thanks allot for the how to!
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the years of brakeless riding or paying some chooch at a bike shop are over.
thanks.
-joe
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Could someone please post a photo of a "brake bullet" as the original image is no longer displaying.
Many thanks.
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Could someone please pot a photo of a "brake bullet" as the original image is no longer displaying.
Many thanks.
(http://web.archive.org/web/20110126082429/http://www.flatlandfuel.com/ProductImages/BrakeBullet.jpg)
-Roy
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Thanks for the image.
Can the 'brake bullet' be used with an EVO brake?
If so, could someone please post an image of the setup?
Thanks