Ryno lite 'xl' is their designation for the welded and spoke hole reinforced version of the rims.
double wall pinned rims are fine for high-pressure use and hold up pretty well as long as the spokes are kept in even tension. That said, care must be taken not to use tire levers at where the rims is pinned, brakeless usage is recommended.

K.Wong, as far as I know the spoke hole reinforcement is the same for Rhyno Lite XL welded and pinned rims, so the joint should be the only difference. Why brakeless use? Have you had problems with pinned rims yourself?

D, I would really like to buy another pair of Rhyno Lite XL 48s, but I cannot find them anymore. I found a cheap offer for the pinned version, that's why I am asking. Most modern rims are 36 only and I would like to update some excisting wheels with 48 H.
A rim torn apart within a combo does not sound good...

I have checked some web shops and it seems like not much more than 40 % of all modern rims are welded. Of course it is a matter of the price, but it seems like there are pinned ones that hold up. Otherwise there would not be such a big market for them I guess.

Uneven rim wall wear, and lateral pressure (side-to-side) from brakes will cause the pinned seam to open (like pac-man) or mis-alight slightly. Was more noticeable on single-walled rims, not so much on double wall.

You are right- some cheaper mtbs came with pinned rims with canti or vee brakes. I believed most heavy users experienced what i mentioned above, thus most Mtb rims later had wear indicator marks- either a dot at both side, of a certain depth or a groove in the middle of the sidewall of a certain depth.
very rarely do i see wear indicators on bmx pinned rims, on rare occasions do see them on bromton type bmx folders...

It is just me but I can't stand the visably noticable seam on pinned rims.  They just look cheap and low quality i.e. Alienation.

For flat, double-walled pinned rims are fine, for burly street riding or vert- only the smoothest riders.
in fact pinned rims are 'truer'- due to the grinding away of the weld beads there is often a depression at the sidewalls where the ends meet; and due to the heat (i think) distortion from welding there usually is high-low spot/unevenness where the ends are welded, giving rise to a hop when truing.