Hi guys, I've been building my new gsport rim with antigram hub. I've tighten each spokes with equal turns and the rim seems to be true. However, i feel that certain spokes is tighter than other. Is this normal? Should i leave it as it is or should i tighten the lightly loose spokes? How tight should each spokes be?

Please bear with me as this is my 1st wheel building.

Thanks & Regards,
Pete

Hi guys, I've been building my new gsport rim with antigram hub. I've tighten each spokes with equal turns and the rim seems to be true. However, i feel that certain spokes is tighter than other. Is this normal? Should i leave it as it is or should i tighten the lightly loose spokes? How tight should each spokes be?

Please bear with me as this is my 1st wheel building.

Thanks & Regards,
Pete

Always do the same amount of turns per spoke. If this is unequal per spoke, the wheel will be off and pairs of spokes will be poking thru the top of the rim. Now granted at the end of the process, you want similar tension to be on every spoke like out~riding said, but that will come eventually. Which brings me to my next point...

Some spokes have less tension than others, but keep in mind that by continuing to tension every spoke by a 1/4 turn, you are inadvertently tightening 2 spokes at once as they cross and put tension on each other.

Granted, some spokes will be harder or easier to turn so use common sense--we don't want to forcefully tighten something as this can lead to stripping or spoke pull-thru down the road. We also don't want to leave spokes noticeably loose either. If you hear creaking while you are carving then it's time to find that one spoke and give her a good tightening.

Hope this helps!

I may be a bit late here replying: new to the forum, but I am a professional wheel builder by trade (In the UK).

You will always have alternating spokes at different tensions, if you do not pay due attention to the building process.

Why? because you have one spoke with the head "in" (the flange) and one with head "out".

The "head in" spokes take a shorter distance to the rim than the "head out" spokes. These have to go through the hub, over the flange and then inwards to the center of the rim. Taking a longer distance, thus putting higher tension on the same length spoke.

When you are building your wheels, put an extra turn on the head out spokes before you fully tension the wheel. This will solve the issue and bring your tension variance much closer.

If you have a good wheel builder locally they WILL be using a tension meter. This tells you how tight the spokes are. Using a spanner or piano tuner does NOT work (yes, I tried!). I use a DT Swiss tensio digital (blue) and the analogue (red). The park tension meter is OK for a budget tool.

If you have your wheels tensioned accurately then they will last longer and not need retruing unless you bend the rim.

Hope this helps