Author Topic: chain tensioner problems  (Read 2862 times)

Offline flat-or-die

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chain tensioner problems
« on: March 09, 2013, 09:26:32 PM »
I run a taska u-free hub on a mankind alive 2.0 frame with a half link chain. I also use a 23 tooth animal chain ring and colony jam pegs. when i try to dial in the chain i cant slam my wheel all the way because the chain is too short so I added a link to the chain but the dropouts on the frame are really short so the chain tensioner "bottoms out". in other words there is no more adjustment left in the tensioner and my chain is loose. I would really like to run my wheel slammed as far as i can with a chain tensioner to keep my chain tight and my freecoaster engaging when it needs to. Any suggestions? Smaller chainring? different chain? different chain tensioner? I just bought this frame new like a week ago and decked it out and now im having this problem:/

Offline SiC

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Re: chain tensioner problems
« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2013, 01:12:10 AM »
If you have access to a welder or know someone who can weld, weld a nut onto the inside of the dropout and make your own built in chain tensioner.  It's basically the same as the DECO, St Martin, Jungle Rider, etc. dropouts and a lot of people here in Japan, including myself, do this to our own frames that didn't have them.  Check the URL below for a picture of it.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/decobmx/5620082587/#
Old school newbie from Japan

Offline wolverines

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Re: chain tensioner problems
« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2013, 04:01:34 AM »
Dealing with the same issue.....same frame just different hub and a 20t sprocket.    I don't even know what to try anymore besides having a friend weld on a chain tentioner .   Is there another alternative that may be looked at? 

Offline SiC

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Re: chain tensioner problems
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2013, 04:15:50 AM »
What about a shorter bolt for your chain tensioner if it tends to bottom out?  Just take the bolt with you to a hardware store and see if you can find a shorter one of the same size/pitch.
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Offline K.Wong

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Re: chain tensioner problems
« Reply #4 on: March 10, 2013, 11:57:24 AM »
i grinded the dropout slots with a 10mm silicon oxide dremal bit, removed 2mm per side so as to enable me to remove chain and b.wheel without breaking the chain.

the same can be done to your frame so you can acheive a slammed rear wheel and tight chain; took me like 5 mins per side of careful grinding.
masking, measuring and marking out where to cut took the most time though - 1/2 hour?

Offline bhuffman

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Re: chain tensioner problems
« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2013, 02:27:51 PM »
People shouldn't have to do this, frames should have longer dropouts - i have no idea why these short dropouts seem to be the trend.
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Offline flat-or-die

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Re: chain tensioner problems
« Reply #6 on: March 12, 2013, 04:44:36 AM »
If you have access to a welder or know someone who can weld, weld a nut onto the inside of the dropout and make your own built in chain tensioner.  It's basically the same as the DECO, St Martin, Jungle Rider, etc. dropouts and a lot of people here in Japan, including myself, do this to our own frames that didn't have them.  Check the URL below for a picture of it.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/decobmx/5620082587/#


This was some awesome advice, i hate that i have to do this but a great idea none the less. i went and picked up long set screws and matching nuts to weld to the frame. Thanks again for the simple fix. they need to make drop outs longer period, break the cycle!!!

Offline wolverines

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Re: chain tensioner problems
« Reply #7 on: March 12, 2013, 05:24:11 AM »
Was there not someone that used  brake hardware at one point?

Offline K.Wong

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Re: chain tensioner problems
« Reply #8 on: March 12, 2013, 05:54:36 AM »
just remember to remove paint from area to be welded.
the nuts you purchases also can't be the type that has zinc or any other type of plating/coating on them.
 
your intial post suggested a sprocket/ chainstay length/ chain length inccompatibility + wheelbase length issue.
 
welding nuts to get chain tensioners are great, but doesn't solve your need to slammed the wheels as far forwards as possible.

Offline wolverines

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Re: chain tensioner problems
« Reply #9 on: March 12, 2013, 06:35:13 AM »
just remember to remove paint from area to be welded.
the nuts you purchases also can't be the type that has zinc or any other type of plating/coating on them.
 
your intial post suggested a sprocket/ chainstay length/ chain length inccompatibility + wheelbase length issue.
 
welding nuts to get chain tensioners are great, but doesn't solve your need to slammed the wheels as far forwards as possible.






This


also do you think that switching to a different gearing may be able to bring the axle  in the drop out more?

i run 20/9 but i do have the option of running 18/9 right now.......if i loose the half link i will be in good shape, but if i take it off currently , i will never be able to get my chain on .

« Last Edit: March 12, 2013, 07:28:44 AM by wolverines »

Offline DaddyCool

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Re: chain tensioner problems
« Reply #10 on: March 12, 2013, 08:38:44 AM »
Hi,
 
you can have a look here
 
http://www.global-flat.com/smf/index.php?topic=54332.msg442267#msg442267
 
to find out approximately which gearing ratio you can use to have you back wheel where you want it to be...
But I doubt that you can find a combination that will make it possible to have the wheel slammed for every frame. You can also try to come close.
 
I think the suggestion from SiC is a very good idea!
 
And I totally can not understand how anyone who has ridden flatland can design a dropout like this. Completely bullsh*t without any advantage except saving 3,62 g...

Offline wolverines

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Re: chain tensioner problems
« Reply #11 on: March 12, 2013, 02:55:36 PM »


 
And I totally can not understand how anyone who has ridden flatland can design a dropout like this. Completely bullsh*t without any advantage except saving 3,62 g...


yes,

  if i would have known this was going to be a problem, i would have found a alternative frame.   Although there is not much to choose from considering i have had a 14mm drop out on all my frames for close to 4 years  and there is so many cut out designs in drop outs now , that to modify them to 14mm is impossible .


**edit.  is the code like this too?
« Last Edit: March 12, 2013, 02:59:34 PM by wolverines »