Author Topic: Sprocket Size and Freecoaster "Play"  (Read 3107 times)

Offline bgibson01

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Sprocket Size and Freecoaster "Play"
« on: November 22, 2011, 04:22:16 AM »
I have a 2010 DK Opsis with a 28t Sprocket.   Are there specific sprocket to cog ratios that are best for flatland?  I am sure its preference.  Could I change to a different size sprocket?  I assume I would just have to take links out of my chain...


I haven't been riding long, and the play in my freecoaster pisses me off frequently, lol.  I try to keep disengaged for when I finish a trick to roll off, but often I find myself falling into the pedal because there is no resistance even though I didnt engage the freecoaster before I got off of the pedals.  Any advice for that?  Or do I just need to get use to it?

Offline K.Wong

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Re: Sprocket Size and Freecoaster "Play"
« Reply #1 on: November 22, 2011, 08:27:44 AM »
I have a 2010 DK Opsis with a 28t Sprocket.   Are there specific sprocket to cog ratios that are best for flatland?  I am sure its preference.  Could I change to a different size sprocket?  I assume I would just have to take links out of my chain...


I haven't been riding long, and the play in my freecoaster pisses me off frequently, lol.  I try to keep disengaged for when I finish a trick to roll off, but often I find myself falling into the pedal because there is no resistance even though I didnt engage the freecoaster before I got off of the pedals.  Any advice for that?  Or do I just need to get use to it?

specific gear ratio for flatland - you are right that it's more of a preferences thing; but that does not mean you can't go to a smaller front sprocket size, provided that you downsize the rear cog too to give your gear ratio close to what you like. i believe the smallest sprocket size for "normal/standard" crank arm bosses are 23 t~ 24 t? i vaguely remember a 22 t version but the standard sprocket bolt rubs against the chain without modding (change to headless/ smaller head version or grinding down partially the standard sprocket bolt)
 
define the "play" in your hub - do you mean the hub moves right and left when you hand hold the the rear wheel or inconsistant engagement of the freecoaster?
 
sounds like the gap in your freecoaster might be too big for your liking, swap out the orginal washer for a thicker one or use 2 of them. i am assuming the f/c you are using is the unsealed taska...
« Last Edit: November 22, 2011, 08:32:30 AM by K.Wong »

Offline bgibson01

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Re: Sprocket Size and Freecoaster "Play"
« Reply #2 on: November 22, 2011, 12:00:19 PM »
I didnt describe the play correctly.  I mean the play in my pedals before the catch to move my back wheel.

Offline K.Wong

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Re: Sprocket Size and Freecoaster "Play"
« Reply #3 on: December 01, 2011, 07:25:45 AM »
play in the pedals or cranks? sounds pretty normal to me - the way freecoasters engage are different from your 'standard' casette hub or thread-on freewheel casette. expect anything from 1/16 ~1/4 crank arm rotation before engagment when pedaling foward (it varies from hub to hub, depending on set-up).
 
or do you mean ghosting? the pedals+cranks moving on their own when coasting backwards without any weight applied to the pedals/ drivetrain? i probly means the freecoaster mech. wasn't disengage fully (by back-pedaling). try to back pedal a little before attemping fakie-type tricks to aid full disengagement of the cog and clutch. 
« Last Edit: December 01, 2011, 07:32:50 AM by K.Wong »

Offline metalbmxer

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Re: Sprocket Size and Freecoaster "Play"
« Reply #4 on: December 01, 2011, 02:05:36 PM »
I had the DK also when i first started. After 6 months about I needed a new freecoaster bc it broke and wouldnt engage.
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Offline bgibson01

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Re: Sprocket Size and Freecoaster "Play"
« Reply #5 on: December 04, 2011, 12:21:21 AM »
play in the pedals or cranks? sounds pretty normal to me - the way freecoasters engage are different from your 'standard' casette hub or thread-on freewheel casette. expect anything from 1/16 ~1/4 crank arm rotation before engagment when pedaling foward (it varies from hub to hub, depending on set-up).
 
or do you mean ghosting? the pedals+cranks moving on their own when coasting backwards without any weight applied to the pedals/ drivetrain? i probly means the freecoaster mech. wasn't disengage fully (by back-pedaling). try to back pedal a little before attemping fakie-type tricks to aid full disengagement of the cog and clutch.


Thats actually exactly what I mean.. the cranks have to be spun 1/4-2/3 of a rotation before they bike will pedal forward.  The nicer the freecoaster the smaller that gap?  or will it always be that way?

Offline bgibson01

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Re: Sprocket Size and Freecoaster "Play"
« Reply #6 on: December 06, 2011, 06:48:59 PM »
no. its adjustable. and smaller front gear will increase the feeling

How is it adjusted.  I meant 1/4-1/3 rotation for my last post.

Offline Lam47

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Re: Sprocket Size and Freecoaster "Play"
« Reply #7 on: December 06, 2011, 09:16:58 PM »
The hub needs to be taken apart. Spacers are then fitted inside to decrease the gap.
Or as jelly says: using a larger sprocket would mean the cranks rotate a smaller amount before engaging the clutch in the hub. The larger sprocket is simply pulling more chain.
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