Thank you to everyone for your input so far. Let me address one thing to be clear: I am only interested in building a frame that is top notch and for the current form of flat. The older influenced, retro style stuff but modernized can stay in my custom program. I can make the frame any geometry any rider wants. What I need from you guys is what the key points are. Maximum tire size, max sprocket size, stand over height, head tube length, how much clearance for the stays, brakes/ no brakes options, details baby! I only have interest in building the best. I have always believed as a rider, that to build the best I need to listen to those that ride a given model then use excellent materials and build process with quality control. I will listen to all and build a proto for you guys to scrutinize. Let's keep the dialogue open. Feel free to contact me directly as well. Rick
why does min. size matter? why not make it so you could just run as small as you want.... i have 13/9 on my kgb and i wish i had a little more chain clearance...
I just started getting into flatland stuff about 3 days ago and suck so far, I blame my sh*tty bike and lack of practice.
Rick, here are some suggestions:1. Small BatchesShort frames, long frames, frames with brake mounts, frames without brake mounts, frames with removable gyro tabs, cable guides, and brake mounts, etc. (the old supply and demand thingy).2. Seat TubeNo externally machined seat tube (they tend to crack; see photos below). Use a fluted seat tube instead. And no built-in seatpost clamp either (you don't want that if you're doing decades).(before anyone asks, yes, those are Sick Child frames)3. Dropouts5mm thick with 3/8" slots & 14mm cutting lines. Either weld the seat and chainstays on the inside of the dropouts (St Martin "Eiffel", "Diamond", and "Gaia"), or make sure they're flush with the dropouts (Ares "Garuda"). No capped seat and chainstays.St Martin "Eiffel" dropoutsAres "Garuda" dropouts 4. Bottom BracketNo Euro BB. Small bearings do not handle loads well. Especially side loads. And Mid BB is overkill for flatland. If you're riding Flatland, Spanish BB is the way to go. Post-weld bearing seat machining on the bottom bracket shell (I hate ovalized BB shells!). 11.5" height.5. Tubing Rustproof coating inside and outside prior to painting/powdercoating.Diameter: TT (double-butted) / DT 1.25" (single-butted), SS / CS 3/4". 6. Seat and Chainstay BridgesNo plates. Use crosstubes instead of plates to reinforce the rear triangle. The plates tend to crack on most frames.7. Head Tube4-3/8" rise (this allows for a low TT), 74.5° HA, integrated head tube (Campagnolo-style) with removable gyro tabs for the dudes with brakes, and no gyro tabs for the brakeless riders.8. Tire and Sprocket Sizes Max. tire size: 1.85" (the inflated width of a 1.85" Odsy Frequency G is about 1.9"), max. sprocket size: 25T (the age of pizza and dinner plates is over). Make sure people can use micro drive gearing.Here's Luis Elias' Instrumental with a 15/9 gearing (15-tooth sprocket/9-tooth driver).9. WeightSomewhere in the neighborhood between 4.25lbs-4.5lbs.10. Thanks for reading!
Oh the bottom bracket dilemma... Just my 2p worth...Imo, I would genrally prefer Euro BB, but with the 2x single larger width bearings ftw?? (Big improvement on the 4x narrow bearings version of old.)It is rubbish having to banging bearings spanish/Mid in/out of a BB shell!
maybe now martti's new forest riders have something to base their frame off
Im glad trend whores have more Taiwan shiit to look forward to.