Author Topic: f*ck Nankai part 2  (Read 3730 times)

Offline AddisonM

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f*ck Nankai part 2
« on: September 24, 2009, 11:41:53 PM »
Instead of bearings getting crushed and axles getting bent, my nankai has decided to take on a new type of f*ckery.

Now whenever I go to tighten my axle nuts, the whole hub including the cone and opposite side lock nut rotate with it, creating a seized effect on the wheel. The only way to even ride it, is to hold a 15mm cone wrench on the hub spacer, while tightening the nuts.

If I have a second person around it's possible, but trying to keep it sitting straight in relation to the chainstays (I.e. where it's supposed to) is another issue. I've tried upwards of 50 times and it's ALWAYS leaning hard to the non drive side.

I love how people bash certain companies like KHE for having sh*tty quality, yet you all have somehow subconsciously developed an understanding and acceptance that Nankai are finicky and often f*ck up, but it's ok.

If this has happened to someone, and I'm sure it has let me know what the solution is.
I'd rather have AIDS than buy another Nankai.

Offline AddisonM

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Re: f*ck Nankai part 2
« Reply #1 on: September 25, 2009, 02:28:34 AM »
I tried that Pheonix, i figured that was it because I had switched axles about a month ago, but everything was he-man strength tight, it's really peculiar but that is not it. thanks though!

anyone else got ideas?
I'd rather have AIDS than buy another Nankai.

Offline tod miller

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Re: f*ck Nankai part 2
« Reply #2 on: September 25, 2009, 02:31:29 AM »
You can use a tennis ball in-between the seat tube and the tire...to get a good tension on your chain... and then free up a hand so that you can hold the cone and then tighten down your axle nuts.  The tennis ball will help keep your wheel straight too.

Good luck!
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Offline laughingmonkey

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Re: f*ck Nankai part 2
« Reply #3 on: September 25, 2009, 02:43:21 AM »
buy a geisha light while pat still has them on sale1
-------            --------
         \         /
           ------
           \___/

  ----  .__o
----- _-\_<,
---  (*)/'(*)

Offline brian84corvette

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Re: f*ck Nankai part 2
« Reply #4 on: September 25, 2009, 03:47:36 AM »
I had a bent frame that caused me all kinds of  problems with the way my hubs acted.
the frame was actually tring to bow in the axle to cope with the way the dropouts were sitting not paralell to eachother.

once I streightened out the frame -  setting the wheel in with out it going sideways on me was waaay easier.

sorry to hear your nanki is running like poo.
I currently have a nanki that is also running like an iddiot
but I only have size 13/15/16/17 cone wrenches atm.  and I believe I need bigger sizes than that to work the cone nuts properly
so thats on hold for a bit.
but im subscribing to this thread to see if you get er figured out,  as ill probly have to do the same.
Old dudes can still rip

Offline mbflatland09

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Re: f*ck Nankai part 2
« Reply #5 on: September 25, 2009, 05:12:16 AM »
Instead of bearings getting crushed and axles getting bent, my nankai has decided to take on a new type of f*ckery.

Now whenever I go to tighten my axle nuts, the whole hub including the cone and opposite side lock nut rotate with it, creating a seized effect on the wheel. The only way to even ride it, is to hold a 15mm cone wrench on the hub spacer, while tightening the nuts.

If I have a second person around it's possible, but trying to keep it sitting straight in relation to the chainstays (I.e. where it's supposed to) is another issue. I've tried upwards of 50 times and it's ALWAYS leaning hard to the non drive side.

I love how people bash certain companies like KHE for having sh*tty quality, yet you all have somehow subconsciously developed an understanding and acceptance that Nankai are finicky and often f*ck up, but it's ok.

If this has happened to someone, and I'm sure it has let me know what the solution is.


Yea its a broken f*cking record on KHE parts. I'm really getting sick of hearing about Khe stuff breaking. I guess everyone else has indestructable parts. hahaha What a bunch of pussies. Anyway, throw the Nankai in the trash and get a geisha light. Ole sh*t... Wait a minute... People say KHE stuff breaks

Offline lJohnnyTheFoxl

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Re: f*ck Nankai part 2
« Reply #6 on: September 25, 2009, 06:35:05 AM »
I ride my Geisha rear a little loose and I always use a cone wrench to keep the cone/hub from moving while tightening.  It's not that hard.

Offline SIN

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Re: f*ck Nankai part 2
« Reply #7 on: September 25, 2009, 04:30:24 PM »
ill take that nankai off your hands and then you can buy/try something else....

Offline Gensanity

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Re: f*ck Nankai part 2
« Reply #8 on: September 25, 2009, 04:42:46 PM »
ill take that nankai off your hands and then you can buy/try something else....

ditto

Use chain tensioners to help keep the axle straight in the dropouts.

I install the wheel w/ nankai adjusted a little bit too tight, and then when everything is installed and almost all the way tightened, I losen the cone nut as needed, then finish tightening everything down.

works like a charm

been running smooth for ... 5 years.. maybe more.


Offline AddisonM

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Re: f*ck Nankai part 2
« Reply #9 on: September 25, 2009, 06:14:38 PM »
Sin selling you my nankai would be like giving you a nice birthday cake, made of sh*t. I will be building a wheel this winter so It will be for sale then If you want it... the tennis ball idea is a good idea to free up a hand.

As for the frame being bent I certainly hope not, I just got the frame a month ago. I will look into chain tensioners, anyone know a good one that would run well with my sh*tkai and a 09 superpower frame?
I'd rather have AIDS than buy another Nankai.

Offline Ultraman Zoffy

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Re: f*ck Nankai part 2
« Reply #10 on: September 25, 2009, 06:17:10 PM »
Taska U-Free. Word.

Offline lamehead

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Re: f*ck Nankai part 2
« Reply #11 on: September 25, 2009, 06:23:38 PM »
Are you locking down your cones?

IE: get a cone wrench and a wrench for your locknut. Loosen then cone while tightening the locknut. This locks/ binds the two nuts together so your cone doesn't loosen and silly play/bearing crushing issues don't happen...

Offline sirgoldenhamster

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Re: f*ck Nankai part 2
« Reply #12 on: September 25, 2009, 06:27:39 PM »
ive had my nankai for 7 years now and never had to touch the thing, its been perfect, i try to ride 2-3 hours a day, so it defiantly has some mileage on it, f@#k whatch u say  ;D 

Offline Paul Chamberlain

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Re: f*ck Nankai part 2
« Reply #13 on: September 25, 2009, 06:43:06 PM »
Instead of bearings getting crushed and axles getting bent, my nankai has decided to take on a new type of f*ckery.

Now whenever I go to tighten my axle nuts, the whole hub including the cone and opposite side lock nut rotate with it, creating a seized effect on the wheel. The only way to even ride it, is to hold a 15mm cone wrench on the hub spacer, while tightening the nuts.

If I have a second person around it's possible, but trying to keep it sitting straight in relation to the chainstays (I.e. where it's supposed to) is another issue. I've tried upwards of 50 times and it's ALWAYS leaning hard to the non drive side.

I love how people bash certain companies like KHE for having sh*tty quality, yet you all have somehow subconsciously developed an understanding and acceptance that Nankai are finicky and often f*ck up, but it's ok.

If this has happened to someone, and I'm sure it has let me know what the solution is.


I know you're angry but I'd like to point out that the problem is you being a f*cking idiot and nothing to do with your hub whatsoever. How can somebody look at something so simple 50 times and f*ck it up every single time?

We're not lying when we say that the Nankai is the simplest and most reliable freecoaster. I had 3 KHE coasters in under 2 years plus spare parts and they are all in the rubbish tip now.

If you want help adopt a different approach!

f*ck Nankai?

f*ck f*cking idiots!

Offline Paul Chamberlain

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Re: f*ck Nankai part 2
« Reply #14 on: September 25, 2009, 06:47:22 PM »
Use two cone wrenches when you're doing it up - Do up the non-drive side first with a cone wrench on the cone nut. Then repeat on the drive side.

Are the dropouts on your frame perfectly parallel?

Is there excess space between the cone nuts and the dropouts when the wheel is in the frame?

As if you're going to want my help anyway...  :rolleyes:

Paul