With flatlandfuels awesome sale on Geisha Light
freecoasters, and about 2 months testing, I decided to
finally explain what I did to my freecoaster to make it
work with tight studs.  The fix involves modifying the
spacers and since flatlandfuel gives you an extra set,
than you really have little to lose by attempting this.


PURPOSE:
To make the studs tighten down without putting any pressure
on the bearings.  I hate having loose parts!  This will make it
work like it should, like it was intended to, so you can tighten
down the studs without putting pressure on the bearings.

EDIT I'm not so sure this is a good idea, read last post.
DAMN




This is how much space the assembled mechanism allows for the driver spacer.





This is what it looks like with the driver spacer installed.  Notice that it is not
flush, the axle stops short of being flush with the spacer.  As a result, there is
side pressure on the bearings when you tighten down the stud as the axle
tried to accomodate the space.

SOLUTION: I filed down the driver spacer as shown in the picture below.
I only touched the flat side, do not grind the non-flat side.






I had to take it to a belt sander and it took about 45 minutes cuz it's a hard
metal.







This was what it looked like after sanding it to be flush.  You can see that it is now
flush.







Next thing I did, was do the same, but only to the other side's spacer,
the HAT-spacer.






Beginning with the shaving of the driver
spacer, and then moving onto shaving the
non-driver-side-HAT-washer.  By shaving, I
mean any means neccessarry to remove the
material, belt sander works alright.  You
can't possibly hold the driver spacer in
a vise, so you have to be pretty creative.

DRIVER SPACER:
For the driver spacer, I would periodically
fully tighten my driver-side stud with
everything in place to check to see if I
had taken off enough material from the washer.
If the wheel had trouble spinning, than I
knew that more material was needed to be removed.
Once the wheel spun freely than it was time
to shave the HAT-spacer on the non-driver side.

NON-DRIVER-SIDE-HAT-SPACER
I would periodically check to see if the wheel
would spin ok by tightening BOTH studs with
everything assembled.  If the wheel didn't
spin freely, than I had to take more material
off the non-driver-side-HAT-spacer.  If the
wheel spun freely, then the process if done.
NICE!

Dam Percy gettin all McGuyver wit it. Maybe my axle studs will finally stay tite now because of me actually being able to snug them down good. Also going to try out a full set of ceramic bearings for the geisha..Cross reference the bearing numbers from FF to Ebay and youll come up with thousands of cheap options there aswell, and for the same price as the regulars from FF..Ill give a report of if there worth it or not..my bad about the ot..carry on.

what size cone is that on the geisha light?  my studs always loosen on the driver-side when i'm taking my back wheel off...

I just orded this hub the other day. I'm going to do this even before it goes on the bike.

I hope the KHE is listening, and make the necessary modifications to the hub. Don't be fools now KHE.

What about keeping the correct pressure on the center race of the bearing? The purpose of those washers is to keep that spot tigh so the berings don't get burned up.  It looks to me that now the pressure is on the inner axle and the bearings may walk back and forth slightly.

Just my opinion. I wouldn't perform this mod, my geisha works fine as is for a year or so. I just hold a wrench on the stub when torquing and all stays good.

Jason your right.
*If you take off too much, than the hub will wobble from
the bearings walkin back and forth !

 I ran into this problem with a brand new hub last night. The studs were tight when I started and I didn't over tighten the axle nuts.. All tho.. I do like the mod idea. I do agree with bearing load tolerances. I was thinking why not just removed both studs and run a female axle set-up. You could use harden tool steel washers to make up the space differences as the stud base does. In any event you could take it one step farther and heli-coil the inner axle just like a G-sport hub...Just my thoughts...Russ

hold the stud with a wrench while torquing the axle nuts....should solve the problem

Well the inner axle is incredibly fragile, in that tiny shards of
material from it will get removed and squish onto it's outer
diameter if there's any contact.  Perhaps from a hammer or
scrape from a wrench or something metal hitting it.
I just got a replacement
axle stud cuz mine broke and it doesn't have flats for tightening.
So I gather that the propper method for tightening is hand
tightening, not torquing with a wrench.  My old axle was too large
a diameter cuz it had collected material that got shredded from
somewhere on the alluminum center axle.
I since switched back to normal spacers to see how it does.
In the meantime I got a cone wrench for holding the studs so
that they don't loosen or tighten when I loosen or tighten my
axle nuts.

I now think that having the studs NOT really tight is a better
alternative than this mod now.  I don't think that the alluminum
center axle can handle the steel stud against it's end, and the
width of the spacers is needed maybe so they can't cut into
the alluminum center axle from side loading.

Maco, what kind of death did your axle suffer?