Author Topic: nankai technolite durability  (Read 3324 times)

Offline jwnolte

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nankai technolite durability
« on: November 03, 2008, 04:33:24 PM »
i ride street (no pegs though) on a nankai technolite hub with max slack.

i have heard all these horror stories about bearings exploding from using pedal pressure on halfcabs and stuff, but is that only on sealed hubs? how would my techno lite (unsealed bearings) hold up if i were to start using pedal pressure to pop out of fakies? i just can't seem to do a decent halfcab by just balancing.

Offline jwnolte

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Re: nankai technolite durability
« Reply #1 on: November 03, 2008, 07:15:24 PM »
actually, i did that mod. the hub is so smooth that i can do crankflips on it (not that i do those). i was going to sell it to buy a cassette, but if that's not an issue, i am going to keep the nankai.

sumthinluv

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Re: nankai technolite durability
« Reply #2 on: November 03, 2008, 07:43:32 PM »
I ride some street on my Nankai including double peg grinds, feeble grinds and I am guilty of using a lot of pedal pressure to get out of fakies and the beast is holding up no worries. I don't even rebuild it that often! I wouldn't trade it for anything.


actually, i did that mod. the hub is so smooth that i can do crankflips on it (not that i do those).

Now that I've read that I'm going to do that mod for sure! The one gripe I have about the nankai is the amount of resistance in the pedalling. I used to do crank flips when I had a cassette but can't do them at all on the coaster.

:)

Offline jwnolte

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Re: nankai technolite durability
« Reply #3 on: November 03, 2008, 09:02:28 PM »
if you need help with that mod, let me know. i took some photos the last time i took my coaster apart:

you have to glue all the bearings to the cones with grease, not the hub shell. i think you need 17 on each side of the shell and 10 in the driver? do the right side first-


then secure the driver so it doesnt shift, causing all the bearings to fall out. I like to put the drive-side shell bearings in first, then thread the clutch in. i wrap a rubber band around a spoke and wrap that around the driver to keep it from un-threading itself and falling out.


then arrange the left-side hub bearings. make sure the cone, lock nut and outter nut are all tight.


carefully slide the axle with the cone assembly in place and set the axle upright on the floor/bench so it doesnt fall back out. if the axle doesnt go in all the way, either you have too many bearings on the cone or the bearings have shifted and are not fitting into the shell correctly.

the driver bearings in my 11t driver are slightly larger than the hub body bearings. make sure you are using the correct size bearings! i put a little o-ring under the cone nut to keep some of the dust out. drop the bearings in around the axle with lots of grease and thread the right side cone nut on slowly.


now take that rubber band off a Nankai wrench is absolutely neccessary for the finishing touches.


when i have time, i can post a more detailed how-to.
« Last Edit: November 03, 2008, 09:24:44 PM by jwnolte »