Recent Posts

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 10
11
Parts & Bikes / Re: Conical washer location on heresy tubes
« Last post by mal on April 07, 2021, 10:44:04 PM »
you could run it without any of the 2, 99% of tubes come naked.Actually its the first time i see washers and stuff with this kind of tubes.
Not needed in my opinion,i think the only way they could serve a purpose is to keep the valve at 90 degrees.This happens anyways if you center the valve on the rim.I don't think that this is for puncture protection.
12
Parts & Bikes / Re: Selecting parts for a new rear wheel
« Last post by metalbmxer on April 07, 2021, 10:30:14 PM »
Daddycool, thank you so much for your advice. The problem appears to #2 as you described. I still need to take it apart for a closer look and I'll probably talk to Pat and see if he has any thoughts.

This is very frustrating. It was an expensive hub ($112 USD) with high quality/precision bearings so I expected much less problems especially 'right out of the box'

Hopefully I can find a solution, I'll look into the washer idea you displayed in the photos but it seems like adding washers, even 'behind' the bearings would only make the problem worse? But I need to take a closer look first, maybe I'm visualizing it wrong. It seems like either the female axle would need to be ever so slightly longer or the cones just a little bit thinner.

as you're seeing its a major pain in the ass. Send it back to pat ASAP without riding it.
13
Parts & Bikes / Re: Selecting parts for a new rear wheel
« Last post by aliasdck on April 07, 2021, 08:41:23 PM »
Daddycool, thank you so much for your advice. The problem appears to #2 as you described. I still need to take it apart for a closer look and I'll probably talk to Pat and see if he has any thoughts.

This is very frustrating. It was an expensive hub ($112 USD) with high quality/precision bearings so I expected much less problems especially 'right out of the box'

Hopefully I can find a solution, I'll look into the washer idea you displayed in the photos but it seems like adding washers, even 'behind' the bearings would only make the problem worse? But I need to take a closer look first, maybe I'm visualizing it wrong. It seems like either the female axle would need to be ever so slightly longer or the cones just a little bit thinner.
14
Parts & Bikes / Re: Selecting parts for a new rear wheel
« Last post by DaddyCool on April 07, 2021, 05:18:21 PM »
Hello aliasdck, good to hear about the weight saving! Not so good to hear about your front hub issue. I only use one female hub (on my several bikes) and this also uses "press fit cones" which are only kind of washers and no thread. The problem in my case was: When you tighten the bolts, the dropouts are pressed against the "cones" and these press against the bearing. If the distance of the bearing areas on the axle is not 100 % the same as in the hub shell, the bearing is getting some side load which easily makes it not rolling smooth.
All this could be avoided by having normal cones with threads. I have almost no idea why 97% of all female hubs don't have it, maybe because it is cheaper/easier to produce.
One needs to distinguish two issues:
1. The axle bearing distance is too big. Then the hub typically runs smooth but when you ride on the front wheel in a curve with side load (by your body weight), then the hub shell will be shifted left to right on the bearings (with quick wear) and of course this is annoying.2. The axle bearing distance is too small. Then the inner ring of the bearing is pressed to the inside whereas the outer ring is not. This side load causes the hub not rolling smoothly.
What is the reason? From my understanding it is the tolerances in production.
What to do? First of all it is good to know the exact bearing distance in the hub shell and on the axle. In both cases (it seems you have case 2), you can try to add some very thin washers which you put "behind" the bearing. For case 2 you would need something like in the pictures.
By the way: It is not easy to find such washers (an online dictionary says they are called "shim ring") . I was lucky to find some in 0.1 mm, 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm for both the outer and inner ring of a hub bearing.
I find it difficult to try to explain this. I hope you get the idea.
15
General Flatland Forum / Re: Austin Luberda on Sequence
« Last post by metalbmxer on April 07, 2021, 03:45:18 PM »
so sick Austin is a true shredder. lots of talent. Good moves Aaron picking him up
16
General Flatland Forum / Austin Luberda on Sequence
« Last post by out~riding on April 07, 2021, 01:49:57 PM »

Quote from: sequenceflatlandbmx
We are stoked to have back wheel destroyer @austinluberda on the Sequence Team!
If you arenít already following Austin, your blowing it! Style for miles. Austin runs the 33mm Hook stem.
17
Parts & Bikes / Re: Selecting parts for a new rear wheel
« Last post by aliasdck on April 07, 2021, 10:23:32 AM »
Thank you. Pressure is currently 120. The sidewall of my tires claim they can be inflated to 125 but I'm not pushing it any further.


No I don't believe an error in assembly was made, flatlandfuel did a great job. The hub looks exactly like it's photo. What I referred to as guards are probably more accurately the cones as you suggested. Just once I tighten it down in the fork (via tightening the axle bolts) everything is essentially being squished together just a tiny bit too much resulting in the wheel spinning poorly. I'll take it apart and have a look in the afternoon.
18
Parts & Bikes / Re: Selecting parts for a new rear wheel
« Last post by metalbmxer on April 07, 2021, 09:59:32 AM »
btw the all black bike with machined finish rims looks fuggin great man wow

glad you saved a whole 2.5 pounds. how much psi you running?

ps just checked that hub out. don't know what you mean about it coming with hub guards. also he's put alot of attention to detail making it a dialled hub. can't see him getting the cones wrong but you never know...
19
Parts & Bikes / Re: Selecting parts for a new rear wheel
« Last post by metalbmxer on April 07, 2021, 09:55:11 AM »
I've never seen a hub like this, I've only ever used ones with male axle with cone and lock nuts for adjusting
. But this one has a female axle, no cone nuts just guards that cover the ends. But it's like the female axle part is just a few mm too short so that when the axle bolts get tightened down when the hub is in the dropouts that it all gets compressed together just a wee bit too much (hopefully that makes sense?)

my first instinct says send it back tomorrow. Ask for a different hub (gsport or odyssey). The QC it's possible just isn't there from Armour. They made other great components but hubs is a different story. I had the same problem on a batch of front and rear profile hubs one time. Never rolled right.

But wait b4 you send it back consider this-->The only other workarounds I'd recommend are trying to put a small small shim in between the fork and hub to space it out (or could grind down the female axle). Also double check your fork isn't somehow cranking down on the wrong part of the hub. Also, I'd lose the hub guards all together. Can you swap out for the regular cones instead? Maybe don't need to torque it down too hard.....

Finally you can pop the shims off the sealed bearings and spray a little WD40 in there. Perhaps the grease isn't right / overdone inside.

Keep us posted on your progress
20
Parts & Bikes / Re: Conical washer location on heresy tubes
« Last post by aliasdck on April 07, 2021, 04:12:03 AM »
 thanks guys
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 10