Global-flat.com Board
English => How-To => Topic started by: DaviD (dave0) on June 04, 2008, 11:19:40 PM
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first of all, the god of freecoaster knowledge.
http://www.free-coaster.com/index.html
structures, types, brands, maintaining, greasing, tweaking, adjusting and whatnot.
and explanation about freecoasters in general:
RideBmx wrote:
We got Odyssey BMX's product designer Ben Ward to give you the complete 411 on freecoaster hubs. From the differences between freecoasters and cassettes, to their strengths and weaknesses, all the way down to the anatomy and mechanics—Ben explains it all. Joe Vee even throws in some real world demos at a skatepark and a few street spots.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12I8iK12oqA[/youtube]
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I used these internet guides to rebuild my Nankai with no previous knowledge:
[url]http://bmxdirect.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=753[/url] ([url]http://bmxdirect.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=753[/url])
[url]http://www.wtlw.net/ff/hub.html[/url] ([url]http://www.wtlw.net/ff/hub.html[/url])
There was a third one but I can't seem to locate the link right now, maybe later...
^_^
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adjust slack for khe geisha. in Spanish. :rolleyes:
[youtube]http://nl.youtube.com/watch?v=uSmqvUt9xHQ[/youtube]
and in English :wub:
http://www.khebikes.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=208&Itemid=229 (http://www.khebikes.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=208&Itemid=229)
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another link for the newbs to check out...
http://www.bmxdirect.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1077
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Ares boo 2.
thanx yeti
Take it apart. Make shure to assemble the hub in the right order.
The clutch has 3 set screws!
The pre-adjusted gap is even perfect for forward pedal rope-a-ronis!
([url]http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/7523/boo2pic1co7.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/7931/boo2pic2yo0.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/74/boo2pic3ra0.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/8484/boo2pic4wd9.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/9619/boo2pic5dn3.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/96/boo2pic6to5.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/8770/boo2pic7ds1.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/629/boo2pic8dm6.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/3078/boo2pic9yn4.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/6766/boo2pic11lq7.jpg[/url])
the more you tighten the screws, the smaller the gap. The more you loosen the screws, the bigger the gap.
grease the axle, both sides of the ball retainer, and the driver (see pics).
([url]http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/3664/hbrarsnaka32gm5.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/725/boo26ya3.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/9414/boo27tw0.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/2112/boo29hp1.jpg[/url])
:beer: :beer: :beer:
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Anyone else amazed by how simple the engineering of a frecoaster is? Just compounded theories.
it truly is amazing :beer: :beer:
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The Ares Boo 2 looks very well designed.
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hey, this could help you
([url]http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o29/luna3k/nankai.jpg[/url])
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my freecoaster was skipping. it would make my pedals always spin foward, i got a new one now but why does that happen?
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make sure your chain is tight
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Ares boo 2.
thanx yeti
Take it apart. Make shure to assemble the hub in the right order.
The clutch has 3 set screws!
The pre-adjusted gap is even perfect for forward pedal rope-a-ronis!
([url]http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/7523/boo2pic1co7.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/7931/boo2pic2yo0.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/74/boo2pic3ra0.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/8484/boo2pic4wd9.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/9619/boo2pic5dn3.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/96/boo2pic6to5.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/8770/boo2pic7ds1.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/629/boo2pic8dm6.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/3078/boo2pic9yn4.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/6766/boo2pic11lq7.jpg[/url])
the more you tighten the screws, the smaller the gap. The more you loosen the screws, the bigger the gap.
grease the axle, both sides of the ball retainer, and the driver (see pics).
([url]http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/3664/hbrarsnaka32gm5.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/725/boo26ya3.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/9414/boo27tw0.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/2112/boo29hp1.jpg[/url])
:beer: :beer: :beer:
can you just drill a hole in the shell and keep it like that and just ajust it without like doing all of that, like take the guts out, drill the hole and put the guts back in and just ajust it from there
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^^
i dont see why not..... youd have to line up the holes with the set screw every time you rode cause the axle is obviously stationary. and i doubt youll be able to drill a hole perfectly aligned with the set screw haha. but id do it if i had the coaster. itd make things 12 assloads easier :beer: :beer: :beer:
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Surely it would only take a few minutes to measure the right distance, wouldn't be that hard.
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Hi guys,
i thought this might interest a lot of you out there.
Akihiko Takahashi from Zion team made a cool little flash book that shows you step by step how to maintain your Nankai freecoaster . It's really cool and really useful.
You can check it out on Zion web page:
[url=http://www.zionbmx.com]www.zionbmx.com[/url] ([url]http://www.zionbmx.com[/url])
:beer: :beer: :beer:
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Taska Hub Adjustment
[url]http://www.wtlw.net/ff/taska/taska.html[/url] ([url]http://www.wtlw.net/ff/taska/taska.html[/url])
Taska Hub Overhaul/Regreasing
[url]http://www.wtlw.net/ff/taska/taskaoverhaul.html[/url] ([url]http://www.wtlw.net/ff/taska/taskaoverhaul.html[/url])
:beer:
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Im probably reading something wrong here but on that link http://www.free-coaster.com/html/g-sport.html (http://www.free-coaster.com/html/g-sport.html) theres a gsport freecoaster and a guy talkin about it in 2007. it has a picture and a video of it. Did something happen or does it really just take a few years to get a product like this goin?
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G likes to take his time
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Can anyone running a KGB Runkai confirm wether or not it's a similar design to both the Ares Boo 2 and Taska U-Free. I ran a search and the answer is still mirky. I read it's different internally but, none has yet to show or even tell how exactly.
Time for Global's former bicyclopedia to chime in. :wacko:
Similar? The Taska U-free, Ares Boo 2 and the KGB Runkai are all made by Taska. They're all the same!
([url]http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/4901/runkai.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/9546/runkai2.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/1291/runkai3.jpg[/url])
:wub:
;D
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With flatlandfuels awesome sale on Geisha Light
freecoasters, and about 2 months testing, I decided to
finally explain what I did to my freecoaster to make it
work with tight studs. The fix involves modifying the
spacers and since flatlandfuel gives you an extra set,
than you really have little to lose by attempting this.
PURPOSE:
To make the studs tighten down without putting any pressure
on the bearings. I hate having loose parts! This will make it
work like it should, like it was intended to, so you can tighten
down the studs without putting pressure on the bearings.
([url]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v410/flatlandpercy/without.jpg[/url])
This is how much space the assembled mechanism allows for the driver spacer.
([url]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v410/flatlandpercy/withold.jpg[/url])
This is what it looks like with the driver spacer installed. Notice that it is not
flush, the axle stops short of being flush with the spacer. As a result, there is
side pressure on the bearings when you tighten down the stud as the axle
tried to accomodate the space.
SOLUTION: I filed down the driver spacer as shown in the picture below.
I only touched the flat side, do not grind the non-flat side.
([url]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v410/flatlandpercy/old_against_new.jpg[/url])
I had to take it to a belt sander and it took about 45 minutes cuz it's a hard
metal.
([url]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v410/flatlandpercy/withnew.jpg[/url])
This was what it looked like after sanding it to be flush. You can see that it is now
flush.
Next thing I did, was do the same, but only to the other side's spacer,
the HAT-spacer.
([url]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v410/flatlandpercy/old_against_new_HAT.jpg[/url])
Beginning with the shaving of the driver
spacer, and then moving onto shaving the
non-driver-side-HAT-washer. By shaving, I
mean any means neccessarry to remove the
material, belt sander works alright. You
can't possibly hold the driver spacer in
a vise, so you have to be pretty creative.
DRIVER SPACER:
For the driver spacer, I would periodically
fully tighten my driver-side stud with
everything in place to check to see if I
had taken off enough material from the washer.
If the wheel had trouble spinning, than I
knew that more material was needed to be removed.
Once the wheel spun freely than it was time
to shave the HAT-spacer on the non-driver side.
NON-DRIVER-SIDE-HAT-SPACER
I would periodically check to see if the wheel
would spin ok by tightening BOTH studs with
everything assembled. If the wheel didn't
spin freely, than I had to take more material
off the non-driver-side-HAT-spacer. If the
wheel spun freely, then the process if done.
NICE!
:beer: :beer:
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how do you remove the driver side bearing in a fed/khe fc?
it looks like the inner race could be driven from the non-drive side, but i didn't
want to go banging on anything.
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i dont think it comes out, i couldnt get mine out when i redid my geisha light
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a 3/4" socket works
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when i pedal with my freecoaster(khe reverse) the driver seems really stiff and grindy, but i cant get my axle out. what should i do?
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http://vimeo.com/851166 (http://vimeo.com/851166)
:beer: for
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I was just going to put that vid up when seeing this section. This is by far my favorite video for learning how this hub works. Out of everything Ive seed or read, this is the easiest to undertand how easy this hub is to work out. Ive had mine for awhile and never taken it apart, after this I have dozens of times to work with my gap setting. I have a bamboo a well and a reverse arriving in 2 days. To anyone who was a little worried about esagng up your coaster during the firs time of taking it apart, dont worry. Its extremely easy.
Im in the process of upgrading mine to a 1 piece 14m axle.
It doesnt go into how to change slack but its easy, just unscrew the bolt from the other side of the axle and everything slides off. If you take the 3 spaces out, remove the washer they sit on and turn it around for massive gap. Its almost half a turn. They did that in this vid but it wasnt shown.
Hope it helps, goodluck!!!
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G likes to take his time
Thought this was funny *yaya i know old post.* 5 years of Gsport George patent documents.
http://img124.yfrog.com/i/zsuj.jpg/ (http://img124.yfrog.com/i/zsuj.jpg/)
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Joey - I removed the 2 washers on the inside (on my reverse). I just built the wheel and dont want to take it off the bike if I can help it once it's on. Will running it w no spacers be enough? How many cranks is that, not even half? Just wondering if I should just run it w the washer backwards or? Wonder what would happen if you ran it backwards w spacers? Would it be a lil less gap than w no spacers and backwards? Would it even work?
thx for the input
It doesnt go into how to change slack but its easy, just unscrew the bolt from the other side of the axle and everything slides off. If you take the 3 spaces out, remove the washer they sit on and turn it around for massive gap. Its almost half a turn. They did that in this vid but it wasnt shown.
Hope it helps, goodluck!!!
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None of these guides say anything about the first Taska sealed :angry:, and I need help adjusting the slack on mine
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None of these guides say anything about the first Taska sealed :angry:, and I need help adjusting the slack on mine
Remove the spacer from the clutch for more slack, or leave it in for minimal slack.
(http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/8137/58962381.png)
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None of these guides say anything about the first Taska sealed :angry:, and I need help adjusting the slack on mine
Remove the spacer from the clutch for more slack, or leave it in for minimal slack.
([url]http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/8137/58962381.png[/url])
seriously thats it! so what if i shave my spring a little will it give it even more slack.
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seriously thats it! so what if i shave my spring a little will it give it even more slack.
Yes, that's it! Don't cut the spring. The slack will suffice.
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THANKS ALOT!!!!!!!!!!! Now I can practice all my back wheel tricks without being chainless
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Can someone plz help me. So I have a Geisha Light freecoaster. When I put it the final axle (non-driver side) I can only tighten it for 2 rounds with my hands. It seems very lose. How to I tighten it? Or is it just the pegs that help with that. I have 10mm axle. I've seen a lot of youtube stuff with the 14 mm axle but I cant use the allen wrench.
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Hey sup guys...I have some BRAND NEW runkai'z up for grabs. Visit my link @
Thanks for the support its going to a good person :beer:
Also I'm going to be running one of these myself cause I have a prototype geisha from like 3-4 years ago lol... anyways I needed help on spoke size. I'm running a 36 Demolition Zero Rim. yea just let me know what ya think i should run. I'm looking for something strong and that will last and all that stuff ;p
Thanks guys!! :P
BUMP!!! RUNKAI SALE UPDATE!!!!
http://www.global-flat.com/smf/index.php?topic=37642 (http://www.global-flat.com/smf/index.php?topic=37642)
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How strong i need to attract the nankai techno to be ideal? Just with finger or with tool?